An hour and a half flight from Papeete, rectangular-shaped Fakarava is a charming village, home to most of the atoll’s 248 inhabitants. The only other – sort of – settlement (10 people ) is on Tetamanu Motu Islet located opposite the lagoon next to the smaller but prettier pass. Fakarava’s immense lagoon has several black pearl farms, idyllic white sand beaches and is peppered with small islands, homes to many breeds of nesting birds oblivious to visitors.