Nicaragua is best known not for its stunning landscapes or vast cultural treasures, but for a war in which a popular uprising was suppressed by a US-backed government. The after-effects of these and other setbacks have left the country in a state of shock from which it is gradually emerging. The good news is throughout this period, human rights have largely been respected and the country’s battles are confined to the political arena. Nicaragua is a fascinating destination for those travellers who have an awareness of history and enjoy getting to know the grass roots.